Some brackets are strictly utilitarian, and nearly disappear when the rod and draperies are installed. Other brackets are decorative and designed to be a visible part of your installation. You will run across some new terminology when you are shopping for brackets. Decorative brackets show at all times and are an integral part of your drapery installation. Each bracket must be from the same collection so that they will work together to hold the rod the same way—mixing brackets from different collections or manufacturers will give you headaches, as they will not hold up the rod correctly.
You also should order all components you need at the same time, so that they will match in color or finish. To ensure that all your components fit together and match, you can shop drapery hardware sets or simply choose the same size and color for all drapery hardware pieces.
Brackets can hold one or two rods, be mounted on the wall or ceiling, and be either fixed or adjustable. Inside Mount Sockets are brackets that can be mounted on two opposite walls to hold the rod between them for a wall-to-wall installation. Wooden Curtain Rod Brackets are designed to work with matching wooden rods. The bracket size must correspond with the size diameter rod you are using.
Wood brackets do not adjust and are offered in different returns. Ceiling brackets can be put anywhere on the ceiling, and wooden ceiling mount brackets are available in the Wood Trends collection. They come in two styles: Standard, which look more utilitarian, and Decorative, which are a more refined style, and more expensive.
This collection offers many options—Wall Mount, Ceiling Mount, Double Brackets, and Bypass Center Brackets, which are designed for specially-made rings to pass over them, so that the rod can be properly supported yet still allow draperies to close.
Double brackets allow two Wrought Iron rods to be mounted one in front of the other for a sheer or curtain under another drapery or a valance. There is also a Bypass Center Support option for a single rod to be mounted with a 3. You can also opt for two deeper brackets to get draperies or valances over an existing drapery or blind, and there is an Inside-Mount Socket option as well.
Wrought Iron Brackets are not adjustable. See the wrought iron double curtain rod bracket here. If you want a double traverse system, you can purchase two Superfine rods and an additional set of Double Brackets, plus Double Rod Supports to create the functionality you need.
You simply swap out the single brackets in that come with the rods and use the double brackets instead. The Kirsch Wood Trends collection offers two different sizes of finished wood double brackets. Both sizes are available in your choice of eight different colors.
The Kirsch 2 inch wood trends double bracket creates a more extravagant setup with a larger rod in the front. Both brackets elegantly support your curtain rod assembly and give a classy, finished look to your windows. Proper bracket installation is crucial for any drapery rod. Your installation is only as good as your wall, and the brackets attach to the wall, so they must be installed securely and correctly.
Do some research based on your wall composition. For drywall, you may need wall anchors if you are not able to screw a drapery rod support into wood or a stud. Plaster walls and steel framing or masonry walls also pose special circumstances, so do your research! A level is absolutely crucial for bracket installation, because ceilings, floors, and even windows may not be square.
Draperies need a perfectly level rod to function properly and look good. Sometimes creating a template for your brackets can be helpful. Remember—measure twice, drill once! Ensure that the screws you are using are the proper size, shape, and depth for your particular installation.
This may require using screws other than the ones provided with your brackets. Again, do some research. Taking your time to properly and securely install your drapery rod brackets will give you years of worry-free drapery operation. Curtain Rod Bracket placement is based on aesthetic as well as structural considerations. Brackets should be mounted on the window frame only as a last resort! If at all possible, the top of the drapery should be at least four inches above the frame.
However, with transom windows, crown molding, and other unusual window configurations, this may present a tricky situation. Measure the space you have between the window frame and the molding or window above. Generally, the higher you hang the draperies, the more lush and beautiful the look.
As long as you can get the brackets on the wall, you can hang the draperies anywhere you like. As to where the curtain rod brackets go on the ends of the rod, it depends on whether the draperies are stationary or functioning, and how much of the glass portion of the window you want to show when the curtains are open. Generally, you will leave only enough room for one ring or tab to hang between the outside of the bracket and the finial on decorative rods, so when you pull the drapery closed, the whole thing does not fly across the rod!
When you are hanging multiple layers of draperies, each layer is generally a couple of inches outside of the last one, and often above the layer underneath, so you need to take that into consideration when placing your Curtain Rod Brackets. The number of brackets you need varies based on the weight of the draperies and the width of the rod. To find your ideal placement, measure down from the ceiling to the top of the trim at the left corner of your window; mark the midway point.
Repeat this in the middle of your window frame and in the right corner, then check your markings with a level. While measuring, keep in mind the length of your curtain panels.
You may need to adjust your penciled-in placement by an inch or two to get the panels to fall where you want them. Curtains that just graze the floor or sill appear classic and tailored, while those that break slightly at the floor from one to three inches are also on trend. To give the illusion of height in the room, mount the rod even closer to the ceiling. If you plan to puddle your curtains for a look that is extremely formal, allow six to eight extra inches of fabric to fall at the bottom.
Skip this style if you plan to open and close your curtains regularly, as the bottoms will dirty quickly from constantly brushing the floors. Last but not least, attach the curtains to your rod according to the heading style by slipping the rod through the pole pocket, grommet rings, or fabric tabs, and capping the ends with finials if you so choose. Each curtain panel should be at least as wide as your window.
Measure from the spot you plan to hang the rod usually four to six inches above the window, but a minimum of two inches to the floor to figure out the length of the curtains. Add more length if you want the drapes to pool. Use a pencil to mark the drill holes for your brackets. Each bracket should be placed at the height you previously determined and about four to six inches from the side of the window frame.
This will allow you to open the curtains completely. Check to make sure your pencil marks are level otherwise the entire window treatment will be crooked. Use a stud finder to see if your brackets line up with studs. Drill the holes and then screw the brackets to the wall.
If your curtains are straight out of the package, iron or steam out creases and wrinkles. Remove the finials from the curtain rod and thread the curtain onto the rod.
Depending on the type of bracket, you may need to place the rod into the bracket before replacing the finial. Your bracket may have set screws to keep the rod in place, so you'll want to tighten them once the rod is installed.
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